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Gardens of Filoli and some detective work!

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Filoli is known primarily for her gardens admittedly. Yes I love the house but most visitors are drawn there for the gardens and the Dynasty connections (more on that later in the post, stay tuned Ed!).
A few years ago I briefly blogged about the gardens HERE but you can never have enough pretty pictures, right?
The gardens encompass many outdoor 'rooms' which because of deer (and security one would imagine) are walled off.
The deer actually linger just outside of the gates, visibly!  They probably smell all of the goodies inside!
The carriage house has been turned into a lovely gift shop and garden center. Some of the produce from the garden is sold here; I bought some lovely rose tea grown on site.
The roses weren't at their peak during my visit in early June but were none-the-less lovely.
If you're curious about any of the rose names the images are entitled by the names I got off the tags.
And as always you can click on any image to enlarge it on your screen!
Most of the roses were heavily scented.
Why have a one color rose when you can have two in one?
The colors were vivid and beautiful in the California sunshine.
Areas of shade were never far away either; a blessing for my sunburn!
I loved this rose arbor over a bench; a wonderful spot to rest.
The summer or tea house remains my favorite part of the property.
See a lengthier post on the summer house from my previous visit HERE.
However the best view of all isn't of the gardens but of the adjacent mountain.
Now down to the detective work.  Filoli is known to many from the 80s tv drama "Dynasty". Both of my visits I overhead snippets of conversation about the lily pond and a cat fight.  Above you see the swimming pool with the house beyond.  To the right of the pool is the lily pond and then the carriage house.
Above is the lily pond which is off the dining room terrace and the carriage house.  However the lily pond is clearly not the one used in Dynasty. Thanks to youtube I have proof - see the video below!
After driving into the entry court of Filoli the women are seen talking in the library. I watched the video closely and it is this exact library (with different furniture and artwork). See my earlier post on the library HERE.  HOWEVER you can see that the lily pond is different - different shape, different plantings, AND A DIFFERENT HOUSE in the background! 
Does anyone know where this iconic scene from Dynasty was actually filmed?

Sea Cliff, San Francisco

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 My favorite neighborhood in San Francisco (for houses) is Sea Cliff.
Located just down the hill from the Legion of Honor museum, seen below, the neighborhood perches on a cliff above the Pacific Ocean.
The neighborhood is beautifully landscaped and many of the houses you pass with a gasp: "It looks like a magazine shoot!".
 I particularly loved this entry above through a grove of Olive Trees - right out of Veranda magazine, no?
 This bubbling fountain was in front of another house with beautiful landscaping.
Many of the houses have private front yards with walls. I loved the tastefully quiet entry above: black door, boxwoods, beautiful lanterns.
 Suited to the climate many of the houses are Mediterranean style.
 Another great entry with olive trees, rosemary, and lavender.
This was one of the lone modern houses which I loved. Notice the sculptural trees surrounding the property.
 This French Norman styled house is super charming.
 A few of these houses which appear to be the oldest have side entries. Notice the ocean to the right.
 The side facing the street is discrete and symmetrical. I think this house is actually concrete.
 Many of these houses, even the newer ones like this above, have great details.
 Looking back you can see how these houses perch on the cliff, capturing that ocean view.
 This house had some amazing old Mediterranean stucco work.
 This house, inland, captures the ocean views by going tall.
 Many of the houses not directly facing the water have rooftop decks and pergolas.
California was made for outside living! Even the interiors here focus on the outside view. Of course you recognize the name Sea Cliff as houses here have regularly been showcased in shelter magazines for decades.
 This house was one of my favorites but look closely -notice anything unusual?
I think that originally this was a stucco house and at some point someone removed the stucco to reveal the tile structure. Notice how the bricks at the door surround above are normal thickness while the rest are about 1/2" thick - a thin veneer.  If you visit the Legion of Honor museum be sure to enjoy the views and some great houses by walking down the Lincoln Highway.

Palace of Fine Arts, San Francisco

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One of my favorite architectural monuments anywhere is the Palace of Fine Arts in San Francisco. I find myself visiting this location every time I'm in the city.
Built in 1915 for the Panama-Pacific International Exposition the structure was intended to only be temporary.
However it proved to be so popular it was left standing long after the exposition thanks to Phoebe Hearst.
By 1965 the 'temporary' nature of the materials was evident and the palace was in ruins. It was torn down and rebuilt of steel and lightweight concrete. Later still it was reinforced for earthquakes.
Originally designed by local architect Bernard Maybeck the structure is a fantasy of Greek and Roman architecture.
 I've always wondered what these women statues were looking at!
 The detail work is still crisp and beautiful.
Notice the scale: it's so immense that people look like ants and barely show up in photographs! As always you can click on the photos to view them larger.
I wish these stepped planters were in use -it would look phenomenal with creeping vines, boxwood, rosebushes, etc.
You probably recognize the Palace of Fine Arts from numerous fashion shoots and advertisements.  I remember a lot of car advertisements from the 70s and 80s.
 The interior of the dome is no less grand.
Again notice the scale of the urns -the door to the lower right hand corner above is probably 7'-0" tall and has a transom over it.
The Palace of Fine Arts sits in the Marina district -a residential neighborhood. Those are some lucky houses with quite the view!
We were lucky to have a gorgeous day to wander around the marina and the Palace of Fine Arts.  It's rather remote away from other touristy areas so never seems to be too crowded in my limited experience.
If you find yourself in San Francisco make sure to visit the Palace of Fine Arts in the Marina District, you won't regret it!

Charles M Schulz Museum

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While many readers of ArchitectDesign probably think I'm a boring, dry architect, I do have my whimsical side which comes out now and again on the blog. While in California last month I made sure to visit the Charles M Shulz Museum in Santa Rosa.
Designed by C. David Robinson architects, the post-modern building expresses this whimsy through its design. Charles Schulz himself was involved with the design before his death.
In the nearby separate gift shop building are a number of exhibits, one of which was an exact Lego replica of the museum. Compare the 2 photos above, the likeness is amazing!
The gift shop itself is worth a visit.
Located between the museum and the gift shop is a whimsical hockey rink and Warm Puppy Cafe which Charles Schulz would visit everyday and still in operation.
 The black and white facade of the museum echoes the cartoons made famous by Schulz.
Life-size statues of snoopy and the gang are littered around the grounds.
Charles Schulz's office where he drew decades worth of his cartoons was installed piece by piece into the 2nd floor of the museum; a period piece if you ever saw one!
 The colors throughout the museum echo the cartoon strips.
Artworks based on the Peanuts series are to be found throughout the museum as well as many of the original cartoons and stories behind them.
 I loved this 'Snoopy' version of the famous Knoll Bertoia chair.
The 'backyard' is a playful place to rest and enjoy the weather. One of my favorite pieces in the museum wasn't connected with the comic strip at all but rather was a wall mural Schulz created for his daughter early in his career which the current homeowners donated to the museum.
Any visit to northern California isn't complete without a stop to the Charles M Schulz museum in Santa Rosa; it will be sure to put a smile on your face!

Sanssouci details

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While summertime 'downtime' (obviously) continues on this blog I thought I'd share some images my Australian penpal was nice enough to share with me of Sanssouci.
 I've blogged about the rococo palace in the past (here and here) and it never gets old.
 While this style may not interest you the attention to detail cannot fail to impress.
 This collection of porcelain on gilded brackets above reminded me of Howard Slatkin's NYC apartment.
 Notice the very successful jib door (closed) to the left of the chairs in the guest room above.
The chairs have a very modern looking ikat type fabric. Many of the fabrics and wallpapers were recently replaced by a company in Lyon.
 I especially love the blue version. Notice the matching curtains.
 Here you see the same fabric in green to match a green guestroom.
 The marquetry work in this small cabinet is amazing. These side chairs sport a more expected silk damask.
My favorite room at Sanssoci, as I've said in previous posts, is surely the Voltaire guest room which he inhabited for a time.
 The polychromed boiserie are so fun and cheerful.
 Birds and fruits sit next to monkeys and parrots - could it be more whimsical?
 Notice the very modern looking grotto-esque icicles at the top of the mirror.
 The parrots almost look entirely free standing on their brackets.
 The wallpapers are also a riot of pattern and color.
Notice the intriguing electrical switch below which blends right into the paper. Of course in the 18th century they wouldn't have had any switches so it's nice to hide them.
 Again with the modern fabrics, doesn't this fabric below remind you of something from the 1950s?
I hope you enjoy these delicious detail shots of Sanssoci Palace!

Charlottenhof Palace, Sanssouci, by Schinkel

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After my last post on Sanssouci many of you expressed your distaste for the Rococo. I thought I would share with you some photos sent to me by my Australian penpal of the neighboring neoclassical Charlottenhof Palace.
King Frederick William IV of Prussia shared this distaste and had the fantastic neoclassical architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel renovate an existing farmhouse on the Sanssouci grounds into a staid palace for his family.
You may recognize this secretary and chairs designed by Schinkel from my earlier POST on the book on Potsdam.
The palace only recently reopened after a long restoration. Notice the chairs above -one with older caning and the other with brand new replacement (which will age and darken over time).
 I think designer Miles Redd would appreciate these red leather studded doors.
Notice the fixed transom panel above the open lower doors seen above so that the height visually matches the adjacent taller doors.
Let us not forget that things are rarely new....gallery walls might be trendy now but have been around for centuries!
 I love the gilt bands framing each separate wall plane - a technique designer David Hicks was fond of using amongst others.
To my eye having such a luxurious gilt bedframe with staid religious iconography is odd but fitting.
Notice the jib door hidden in the green fabric lining the walls to the left of the photo above; Service door or perhaps a bathroom of sorts?
The silver leafed door is stunning. Designers were matching silver and gold 2 centuries ago!
 The reading chair above would have been a comfortable place to sit each evening.
 This beautiful collection of green glass would be one I would love to bring home with me!
A tented bedroom with simple striped fabric makes a big statement.
While the rest of the structure is simple as shown the entryway was still designed to impress. This was the palace of a king afterall!
I hope you enjoyed this rare look into Charlottenhof Palace in the Sanssouci gardens!

Chinese wallpaper at the Baths at Badenburg, Nymphenburg Park.

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Whilst on his travels my Australian penpal stopped at Nymphenburg where the park is full of fascinating follies. Built in 1722 by Joseph Effner the Baths (or sauana) was the focal point of the park.
I love that the building is set in a lawn of daisies. I hate the American preference for pristine green lawns; give me wildflowers!
 The main room right when you enter is the banqueting hall.
The ceiling frescoes were badly damaged by the bombing of Nymphenburg during WWII but have been recently restored.
 I love these mirrored niches mirroring the transoms over the french doors. Both transoms and niches hold a collection of busts.
 The baths are shockingly opulent. The balcony above was for people to observe those in the pool below.
The most amazing part of this pavilion though are the original but recently restored hand-painted Chinese wallpaper in the 4 rooms of the "Elector's apartment".
 This room featured beautiful pink tea-stained and emerald green birds and flowers.
Another room features a more scenic Chinese wallpaper.
 The details are fascinating.
 The colors also are amazingly vivid.
 The houses in this wallpaper are the main attraction.
The park is full of beautiful follies and looks like a great place to spend a day.  Thanks to my penpal for sharing his travels with us all!

Chinoiserie Pagodenburg, a royal tea house

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Thanks to my Australian penpal today I bring you another folly from the Schloss Nymphenburg park in Munich, the Pagodenburg (click on the link for an amazing 3d tour of the building and the pretty view it faces).
Designed by Jospeh Effner and finished in 1719 as a royal teahouse in the gardens of the palace, the rococo exterior gives way to an exotic Chinoiserie interior.
The lower level of the octagonal building is lined with over 2,000 delft tiles with a ceiling mural in the same blue & white color scheme.
The tracery moulding framing the tiles would have been originally gilded as in other areas of the room. Above you see it during restoration in white which I think I personally prefer. Remember though that  'more is more' in the rococo language!
Upstairs the plan is split into two rooms.  One has fantastic wallpaper, an inlaid floor, and gilded wall decorations and ceiling.
 The little emerald green silk covered bed looks like a perfect spot for a post-lunch nap.
 The niche's painted silk wallpaper is intense and dramatic.
The other half of the 2nd floor contains an ebony and red lacquered room with the same parquet floor. Just imagine what a cute little house this would make!  Read more about the Nymphenburg palace and gardens on wikipedia HERE.

Basildon Park

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Lets leave the continent and travel to Basildon Park in England, outside of London, courtesy of my Australian penpal yet again.
You may recognize the Palladian house as it has been featured in many recent movies and tv shows: Downton Abbey, Marie Antoinette, Dorian Gray, and Pride & Prejudice to name a few.
The couple who donated the house and collection to the National Trust in 1978 after restoring it, Lord and Lady Iliffe, retired to the wing seen above to the left. Not a bad retirement, no?
One of my favorite parts of any English Country house are the staircases: here you can see the stone delicately cantilevering out of the walls.
The house is actually a rather recent building as it was basically a shell when the Iliffes acquired it.
The couple spent decades collecting pieces of 18th century houses which were being demolished at an astonishing rate to restore the houses' neoclassical interiors.
 Much like other country houses decoration from many centuries are shown side by side.
 I love this pair of knife boxes in the shape of urns shown flanking the fireplace in the dining room above.
The decoration encompasses all manner of furnishings and art that one expects to see in a house which has been constantly occupied for centuries: all gathered in the span of 3 decades.
 This Adamesque painted ceiling is stunning.
 And I know many of you will love these formal pelmets.
 Recognize any of the interiors yet from your favorite tv shows or movies?
 I especially love the library, particularly the mid century fabric on the couch and easy chairs.
 Many great mirrors are to be found in all of the rooms.
 The plasterwork in the hall above is stunning.
While none of the artwork is particularly important it is highly decorative.  Each piece was chosen for its scale and to add to each room's ambiance.
 Although with ceilings like this do you even need artwork on the walls?
 And of course it wouldn't be an English country house without beautiful bedrooms.
I'll leave you with this image of Lady Illife's very 1950s bathtub (I hear the kitchens also were the height of 50s high style!) - don't miss those fabulous faucets!

Kenwood House

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Located in London is Kenwood House, a stately house that has acted as an art museum since 1928 which was re-envisioned by Robert Adam in the 1770s for the Earl of Mansfield.
Recently the house has been in the news after both a massive restoration as well as having one of its' former occupants immortalized in film:  Dido Belle (Belle, 2013). Unfortunately I have yet to see the movie, portions of it filmed at Kenwood House (also portions of the film Notting Hill) .
The shallow Ionic entrance portico was added by Adam during his renovation of the house as well as the side wings.
 Adams' hand is evident throughout many of the public spaces.
None of the furniture was included with the house when Lord Iveagh donated the house and art to the nation in 1927. Since then all of the furniture seen has been donated and collected, some originally from Kenwood.
 Notice the fabric covered pelmet with these curtains.
 The most famous room of the house is no doubt Adam's library.
 I've read that the spines of many of these books are fake but they sure look real to me, don't you think?
 The ceilings are a neoclassical masterpiece.
 Gilded pelmets grace the windows of the library, notice how the motif echoes the ceiling decoration.
 Another graceful cantilevered stair graces the house.
 I wonder why no art is hung on the stair walls; it looks so naked.
 But there is no shortage of amazing art throughout the rest of the house.
The quality of the art is so good that you probably recognize much of it, including the Van Dyck above the fireplace below of Princess Henrietta of Lorraine.
Of course Lord Iveagh had help amassing his collection, he hailed from the Guinness family.
 I love the subtle reminder of the large thistles to not sit on the armchairs; much more elegant than rope.
The breakfast room seen above includes other notable paintings such as Lady Hamilton at the spinning wheel by George Romney.
The collection of Robert Adams upholstered furniture was designed for the house but was of course later donated and with impressive provenance.
During the Kennedy era renovation of the White House the sofa was expressly donated back to Kenwood House by Jackie Kennedy.
 Not sure I love the upholstery of the matching armchair above.
Lastly this collection of lovely desks caught both my eye as well as my penpals who provided me with these pictures.
In this age of email, the laptop, and tablet will desks go away? They really are one of my favorite pieces of furniture so that would be a shame -although admittedly I sold my own desk years ago.
 Kenwood House is conveniently located in London so be sure to include a visit to the house and its' art collection on your next visit!

A 'Duesy' of a Duesenberg

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Recently while in Maine visiting friends I spent some time in the lovely, revitalized town of Portsmouth, New Hampshire; definitely worth a visit let me tell you, charming town! While walking the streets I noticed this fantastic car and thought 'WHAT IS THAT?'. Clean lines like a greyhound and obviously much beloved by its owner in pristine condition.
Duesenberg was an American luxury car company in operation from 1913 until 1937 when it succumbed to the depression. Each car was a limited production and entirely built by hand so they are obviously much valued by collectors today (such as Jay Leno and a fantastic looking car MUSEUM).
While I don't even own a car myself (believe it or not, Americans) and have never considered myself a 'car person' I definitely appreciate the design of many antique cars. Have you noticed any extraordinary cars lately?

Upholstery: before and after

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As many of you know I've become somewhat of an estate sale junkie.  At a sale earlier this year I picked up two rather ragged chairs for next to nothing.
 Above you can see the before. The chairs were upholstered in a tired, faded fabric but the frames were sturdy, the cushions in great shape, and the design unique and oddly comfortable. The Venetian shape just nestles your back perfectly.
I paid a visit to Roxene at Haute Fabrics in Arlington, Virginia, and found this amazing hand-done crewel fabric. Here she is measuring out my yardage. Hi Roxene!
After a quick turn around from my upholsterer they're happily ensconced at my friend's house; at a fraction of the cost for comparable new chairs. Can you even recognize them?  Leaving the skirts off modernizes them and the pattern is really cheerful.
 Here is a closeup of the amazing crewel work.
I love the way the fabric complements the rug but isn't matchy-matchy. This last shot isn't very good but gives you an idea of the line of the chair. These definitely need to be manufactured again by someone as they're so comfortable!
I can't recommend more highly a visit to Roxene at Haute or my upholsterers, Urban Castle Interiors.
PS. since I've received emails about it this is obviously not staged nor the final resting place for the chairs as work is ongoing in the house. Just quick snapshots!

Lecture opportunity with Stephen Salny: The interiors of William Hodgins

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Washingtonians are in for a treat!  Author Stephen Salny will be speaking on his latest book, William Hodgins Interiors, in Georgetown at Blake Hall for the ICAA on Thursday, Sept 18th at 7:15. Join members of the ICAA for drinks beforehand at 6:30. Mr. Salny will be signing copies of the book, which will be available for purchase, after the lecture.
Boston based decorator William Hodgins is considered one of America's greatest interior decorators. William Hodgins Inc was launched in 1969 and his work encompasses residential commissions from New England to Florida, as far west as California, and overseas.  Author Stephen M. Salny will present an in-depth look at Hodgins most important work to date during his illustrious, ongoing forty-year career.

Stephen M. Salny, who grew up in the Boston area and has had a long-standing interest in interior decoration, first became familiar with Hodgins' work at the age of 13. Salny knew many families who hired Hodgins to decorate their homes. Salny and the designer met in the early 1980s at Hodgins client's home in Palm Beach and they became good friends. In writing about Hodgins, Salny has had the pleasurable privilege of spending quality time with Hodgins, his associates, former employees, and many of his clients.

Information on attending the lecture is available at the ICAA website HERE about 1/2 way down the page. I hope to see you there!!

Can you rebuild the past? The Berlin Schloss

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A debate has raged in Berlin for the past 2 decades over whether to rebuild the historic Berlin Schloss or City Palace on historic Museum Island. Badly damaged during WWII, the communists tore down the palace in 1950 to make way for their Palace of the Republic, a hideous steel, glass, & asbestos multi-use structure which was recently, in-turn, torn down.
The Schloss had served as a public art museum since 1918 but was started in 1443 as a royal palace. Constantly renovated over hundreds of years, the exterior stayed fixed to the baroque period while the interiors reflected the styles of the day. The dome was rebuilt in the mid 19th century by none other than the architect Karl Shinkel in collaboration with Stuler.
Many people have debated rebuilding the historic structure because they claim it has overtones of the previous monarchy, but what monument in Europe isn't tainted by history? In these photos you see photographs of a model of what is currently under construction taken by my Australian Penpal at the neighboring Bode Museum in Berlin.
What these people seem to want is a building of our own age -much as the communists wanted in their construction of the Palace of the Republic. Would they want someone like Frank Gehry (heaven forbid) to build something that doesn't match the historic area in the center of the city and would be reviled in 10 years time (as well as now)?
The compromise has come about that the exterior will be built to closely match the former palace with modern interiors which will house a modern, non-western art museum. The costly exterior recreation will be done mainly through private donations which have nearly been fulfilled and plans to be finished in 2019.
The undertaking is gargantuan as can be expected for such a massive building site. The exterior carved stonework has been meticulously copied from historic photos and paintings. Each piece must be modeled full-size in clay (which takes about a month) and approved by a panel before being carved in sandstone by masons (each small piece can take up to 2 months by one artisan).
 Here you can see 1 of 43 required eagles which will adorn the facade.
The workmanship is amazing; encouraging to know it exists in this day and age! The sandstone cartouche above took a mason 2 months to complete. Talk about job security!
Above you can see construction from last month. What do you think -would you have decided to rebuild the historic palace to fit within this historic district or hired a modern day architect to build something new?
See more images of the building's past and future HERE.
This article in the WSJ details the controversy in more detail.

Manhattan Classic, New York's Finest Prewar Apartments

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I was very excited to recently receive a copy of Princeton Architectural Press's new book "Manhattan Classic" by Geoffrey Lynch, pictured below, (from the firm H3 Hardy Collaboration Architecture) which features the best 'Prewar' apartment buildings in NYC.
This well organized book starts with a map of NYC which shows the location of the buildings covered. Each chapter then features an exemplary floorplan of the prime unit in each building as well as photos of additional apartments.  In many ways it reminds me a lot of Washingon, DC's version of this (our real estate bible!) Best Addresses by James Goode (another book I can't recommend more highly!)
For architectural floorplan lovers like me you won't be able to put this book down - pure floorplan porn with over 84 apartments featured!
Some of the images you may recognize such as this apartment from 998 Fifth Avenue but it's interesting to see them placed within their buildings and area of the city -putting a name to the face so to speak. I love this dining room above and the staircase located within the same duplex apartment, seen below, is even more stunning!
Some people may sneer at apartment living as 'small' but this book proves that the dwellers of these apartments aren't missing out on anything from a single family home!  Pick up your own copy of the book today and settle down with a glass of wine to study the floorplans; I promise you won't regret it!!

Amalienburg - heaven at Nymphenburg palace

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Long time readers may remember a brief post I wrote in 2009 on Falkenlust Schloss which was based on a hunting lodge built at the palace grounds of Nymphenburg, Germany. That hunting lodge is Amalienburg which I'll discuss here.
Described as heaven on earth by my Australian penpal who provided me with these pictures, the rococo palace is Nymphenburg's answer to the Petit Trianon at Versailles (although built 20 years prior in 1739). This small building was built for the king's wife, Maria Amalia, as a hunting lodge or escape from the main palace or schloss.
 The pink and white stucco exterior is perfectly symmetrical naturally.
The main salon is mirrored and silver-leafed to within an inch of its life while the rest of the paneling is painted a dreamy light blue.
The reflection of light from the french doors in the mirrors plus the light color helps blur the boundary of the space - imagine it on a sunny day!
 Even if you don't like rococo I think you'll appreciate the workmanship and fine details.
The carved woodwork features women relaxing in nature with all manner of plants, hunting dogs, and birds.
 The furniture is as magnificent as the wall detailing.
The bedroom is no simple place to rest ones' head. The portraits flanking the bed are of Maria Amalia and her husband Karl Albrecht who commissioned the structure.
 Would you ever think yellow silk, and silver and yellow painted wood could be so pretty?
The adjacent 'hunting room' functions as a picture salon with paintings by Peter Jakob Horemans showing the couple at court hunts and functions; sort of an 18th century version of a den covered with family photographs!
 Again the furniture perfectly matches the wall decorations.
The most charming rooms feature hand painted linen wall-coverings in chinoiserie style. Below the room is called the 'pheasant room' and you can see why with the animal so prominently featured.
A closeup of this wallcovering reveals how playful and modern the lines seem!
The 'dog and gun room' features a similar linen wallcovering in blue and white -even more blatantly chinoiserie in style.
 Dogs slept beneath built-in gun storage in this charming space; quite the fancy kennel!
Even the kitchen was not spared the over-the-top decoration lavished on the rest of the palace. Delft tiles were used in profusion covering every surface including the stove.
 These tiles feature birds and flowers, certainly an inspiration to Howard Slatkin in his own kitchen!
As I mentioned I realize rococo is not everyone's favorite but the attention to detail and workmanship are incredible and should be inspiring to all designers!

A baroque masterpiece: Fulda Cathedral

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Leaving the playful rococo style seen in the last post, Amalienburg, we now visit Fulda, Germany, to tour the baroque masterpiece of Fulda Cathedral. The baroque style was a direct response to the rococo and was based on more serious Romanesque architecture. The ornament is restrained with lots of 'blank space' for contrast to let the eye rest.
My Australian penpal on his most recent European adventure had little to say about the cathedral, I think in part because this restraint in comparison to the over-the-top'ness of the profuse German rococo can be somewhat underwhelming. This architectural purity of the baroque style appeals to me personally though.
The Cathedral was designed in 1700 by the German baroque architect Johann Dientzenhofer after a visit to Rome.  Dientzenhofer was clearly inspired by St Peter's Basilica, a masterpiece from the Renaissance which every great architect and artist had worked on: Bernini, Michelangelo, Maderno, and Bramante to name a few. Who wouldn't be inspired?
 As with most churches, light is everything.
I think it's interesting to note that unlike both earlier and later churches, stained glass wasn't a feature -here the light, space, and the architecture itself are left to speak.
One of the most noted features of this Cathedral is the world famous pipe organ which you can read about here if you're interested. Personally I always think of music when I imagine the baroque period so having a masterful pipe organ in this church makes sense!
It may be baroque but the rococo qualities are still seen in the sculptures.
What I love about a baroque church is that the ornament is purposeful -one knows where to look during a service and also knows what is important. Everything isn't ornamented equally, rather the pulpit and the alter are given pride of place.
I hope you enjoyed this little architectural history lesson and visit to Fulda Cathedral. I've added Fulda to my travel wish list!
As always click on the images to view larger

Playful architectural trimwork

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On Cape Cod last month I noticed this charming cottage while on a bike ride and had to stop to take pictures like any self respecting architect. What I really appreciated was the playful trimwork and beautiful colors used; vintage yet fresh.
Oddly enough this house is only a block away from another I featured a few years ago, Carpenter's Gothic and has the same beachy charm.
I won't comment on the fake roofing material but the natural wood shingles and shades of green trim have my vote! What do you think?

Pittsburgh from above

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As long time readers of this blog know that while I've called Washington, DC home for nearly 13 years I'm originally from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania; home to Heinz ketchup, robber barons, Andy Warhol, and Mr. Rogers.
This past labor day weekend I had the chance to play tour-guide for a few friends on a quick trip to the city which is thankfully only a 4 hour drive from DC.  Seeing your 'home' from a visitor's viewpoint is always eye-opening and left me with a new-found appreciation for the city.
After a day spent at Kennywood (a historic and very pretty amusement park set amid gardens) we visited downtown Pittsburgh from above. No not from a helicopter but on one of the 2 remaining funicular's or "inclines" which lead one from the river's edge up to the neighborhood of Mt. Washington overlooking the city. I believe at one time there were 13 of these cars operating along the river, some of which could even carry cars!
We had typical "Pittsburgh weather" as I call it - overcast and drizzly - but the sun was able to breakout a few times to enjoy the view.
If you ever find yourself in Pittsburgh treat yourself to a round trip on one of the 'inclines'!

Arco della Pace, Milan

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Recently my Austrlian Penpal sent me photos from his trip to Milan, Italy, including photos of the Porta Sempione. The centerpiece of this city gate is the Arco della Pace, or Arch of Peace, designed by Luigi Cagnola in the early 19th century.
The arch replaced an ancient Roman wall and gateway which were called Jupiter's gate or Porta Giovia. The significance behind the arch remains a mystery. It was either built in wood in 1806 for the marriage of Eugene Beauharnais with a Bavarian princess and later recreated in more permanent marble, or was designed for Napolean in 1807. Either way the arch wasn't completed until 1838 for Emperor Francis II, 5 years after Cagnola's death. Flanking the arch are exquisite neoclassical customs houses.
 Other than the iconic Parisian Arc de Triomphe it remains the largest structure of its kind.
 The construction of the sculpture reliefs are not only marble but also wood, bronze, and stucco.
If you find yourself in Milan, take a break from shopping to check out the Aro della Pace!
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